Why playing fetch is bad for your dog.
- thardwick274
- May 15
- 3 min read

Playing fetch is an age old game for dogs and, at face value, seems like a great way to bond with your dog and get them to exercise while you sit on a bench. The problem is that repetitive, high-intensity fetch can cause a few different issues for some dogs — especially when it's overdone or not properly managed.
Here’s why fetch can be problematic:
🚨 1. High-Impact Strain on Joints
Repeated sprinting, skidding, jumping, and abrupt stops/turns put intense pressure on the hips, shoulders, stifles (knees), and spine.
This can aggravate or contribute to injuries, especially in dogs with:
Hip or elbow dysplasia
Cruciate ligament issues
Arthritis
🌀 2. Lack of Movement Variety
Fetch usually involves linear movement — straight out, sharp turn, straight back — with little variation.
This can overwork specific muscle groups and neglect others, leading to imbalances.
😬 3. Overexcitement and Adrenaline Spikes
Many dogs get hyper-focused during fetch. They ignore pain, fatigue, or injury signals because of the adrenaline rush.
They may push through strain or injury just to keep going.
🧠 4. Mental and Behavioural Impact
Repetitive, obsessive fetch (especially with high-energy breeds) can lead to:
Over-arousal
Anxiety
Frustration when not allowed to play
Even signs of canine OCD
🐺 In the wild, dogs (or wolves) follow a predatory sequence: orient, visually focus on prey, stalk, chase, grab-bite, kill-bite, dissect, consume.
Most domestic dogs are genetically hardwired to enjoy parts of this sequence — especially the chase. But fetch usually only engages:
Chase
(Maybe) Grab-bite (when they catch the ball)
And then? It stops.
❌ What’s missing:
The emotional satisfaction from capturing, killing, and especially consuming the prey.
The sense of closure that comes with completing the “hunt.”
The natural reward chemicals like dopamine and endorphins that build during a full predatory sequence are interrupted.
Better Alternatives to playing fetch:
🧠 1. Scent Work (Nose Games)
Why it’s better: Uses a dog’s natural scenting ability, highly stimulating, low physical strain.
Ideas:
Hide treats or toys around the house/garden.
Use a snuffle mat or scent box.
Try beginner scent detection kits or games like “find it.”
Mental benefit: Engages the olfactory system — the most powerful part of a dog’s brain.
🎾 2. Tug of War
Why it’s better: Controlled, engaging, low-impact.
Tips:
Use a tug toy with good grip and cushioning.
Teach a solid “drop it” cue.
Avoid wild jerking to protect neck and jaw.
Play on softer surfaces with better grip, like grass rather than concrete or wooden floors.
Bonus: Builds impulse control and trust when played with clear rules.
🧩 3. Puzzle Toys and Food Games
Why it’s better: Makes your dog “work” for food — brain enrichment without running.
Examples:
KONGs stuffed with food.
Nina Ottosson puzzle toys.
DIY puzzles (e.g., muffin tin with tennis balls and hidden treats).
🦴 4. Trick Training
Why it’s better: Builds mental stamina, confidence, and strengthens your bond.
Start with:
Shake, spin, bow, tidy up toys.
Target training or using a clicker.
Keep sessions short and rewarding.
Bonus: Great for rainy days or limited space.
🧘 5. Canine Enrichment Stations
Why it’s better: Offers free choice and exploration, not performance-based.
Components:
Cardboard boxes to shred (just make sure they don’t swallow the cardboard in case it contains glue).
Scented objects or textures.
Calming lick mats.
🪑 6. Target Work or Platform Games
Why it’s better: Low joint strain, teaches body awareness.
Ideas:
Train your dog to stand on a mat, touch a target with their nose/paw.
Use a balance disc for slow controlled movements.
Ideal for confidence building.
🎓 7. Obedience Games (With a Twist)
Why it’s better: Refines everyday skills in a fun way.
Examples:
“Go to mat” from increasing distances.
Recall games using indoor hallways.
“Which hand?” treat guessing game.
⚠️ General Tips:
Avoid repetitive jumping, sharp turns, or abrupt stopping to reduce the impact on your dog’s joints. Swap a tennis ball for a cuddly toy that they can shake and shred to simulate killing a prey, and reduce the frequency and intensity of play.
Use soft surfaces where possible such as long grass. Chances are, they’ll find a scent of a real animal and get distracted from the game anyway. Make sure you warm up with a walk before playing and incorporate calm-down time after a cool down. Look for calming behaviours such as chewing and licking after stimulating play. If your dog struggles to calm down on their own, crate training could be a solution for them.
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